The markers need to be perfectly aligned with the fixed index on the engine case. You should normally see the letter "T" before or after a small line (dash). When you have the perfect alignment, you can adjust the valves of cylinder # 1. Use the feeler gauges and check the manufacturer's recommended gap widths (minimum and maximum).


For instance, a Suzuki GS 750 with a 16-valve DOHC engine has a minimum gap width of 0.003 millimeters and a max of 0.008 millimeters (intake and exhaust). However, some engines feature gaps that are 2-3 times wider. Once again, I urge you to refer to the owner's manual.

When you have finished with cylinder # 1, make a half rotation and proceed to the settings of cylinder # 2 (using the same technique) and so on.

When tightening nuts on worm screws, be careful and double-check everything you do. A loose nut will lead to serious damage to the engine and possibly stalling.

WARNING!
There will always be smart mouths around you, telling you how they would do it with their motorcycle. Don't buy into everything they say! A couple of myths still exist. For instance, some people believe that not hearing the valves flapping is a good sign. Not only is it absolutely incorrect, but it also means serious trouble for your engine.

You should know that valves tend to collapse on their "seats". As a result, they get closer to the rockers and tighter with the camshafts. The valves end up remaining slightly open and generating a loss of compression. Internal heat will ultimately burn them.


Stay tuned for Part Two...