Before going any further, I want to make sure you understand how ATV clutches are controlled. No pressure on the lever means that the clutch plates are engaged (driving), while pulling the lever back towards the rider will disengage the clutch plates, allowing the rider to shift gears. Moreover, ATV clutches are usually made up of alternating plain steel and friction plates. One type of plate has lugs on its inner diameter that key it to the engine crankshaft, while the other type of plate has lugs on its outer diameter that key it to a basket which turns the transmission input shaft. The plates are forced together by a set of springs when the clutch is engaged. This is how wet-type (oil bath) multiplate clutch systems work.


Since there are no filtering system, you need to change the oil from time to time. Depending on how much you ride, oil should be changed every 10-15 hours of use. It's important to choose a proper oil; molybdenum-based additives in the oil will create antifriction between the plates. Some companies have developed specific oils for motorcycles and ATVs. What about synthetic oil, you say? Again, you have to choose the appropriate oil; putting your trust in proven brands is always a good idea. Car oils are not recommended since their antifriction additives are too strong. Ask any ATV retailer for advice; they are familiar with the products and ideally positioned to guide you.

As for the transmission itself, you can refer to my previous feature on semi-automatic transmissions. The operation is identical, except that there's only one clutch.

A mechanical transmission with wet-type clutch and pressure plates requires regular maintenance (oil change, for example). You'll need to check the wear and planeness of the plates and replace them if any slippage occurs or when engaging first gear becomes more difficult. Oil that loses its lubricating properties can make gear shifting harder.